The Origin Story
Butter chicken — or murgh makhani — was invented in the 1950s at Moti Mahal restaurant in Delhi by chef Kundan Lal Gujral. The story goes that he didn't want to waste leftover tandoori chicken from the day before, so he simmered it in a rich tomato-cream sauce spiced with garam masala. The dish became an instant hit and is now one of the most recognisable Indian dishes globally.
The version I know comes from Ravi Sharma, a colleague in Sydney whose family is from Punjab. Ravi's grandmother ran a dhaba (roadside eatery) outside Amritsar, and her butter chicken was legendary — people would drive hours for it. Ravi's version uses her garam masala blend, which includes black cardamom and mace, and he insists on marinating the chicken overnight. "The marinade is not optional," he says. "It's the whole point."
What we call butter chicken in Australia — often a generic takeaway curry — bears little resemblance to the real thing. The real version is rich but balanced, with complex spice layering, a gentle tang from yoghurt and tomato, and just enough cream to soften the edges without drowning the flavour.
A Note on Tradition
Butter chicken is now a global dish, but its roots are in Punjabi cuisine and the tandoor cooking tradition. The use of leftover tandoori chicken is key to the original recipe — the smokiness from the tandoor adds depth to the sauce. Most home versions skip the tandoor (because who has one?), but you can replicate some of that flavour by charring the chicken under a hot grill before adding it to the sauce.
Ingredients
For the Marinade
- 1kgChicken thigh fillets, cut into large pieces
- 200gPlain yoghurt
- 2 tbspLemon juice
- 2 tspGaram masalaRavi's grandmother's blend includes black cardamom and mace
- 1 tspGround cumin
- 1 tspKashmiri chilli powder (or sweet paprika)
- 1 tspSalt
For the Sauce
- 50gButter
- 1 largeBrown onion, finely diced
- 4 clovesGarlic, minced
- 2 tbspFresh ginger, grated
- 2 tspGaram masala
- 1 tspGround coriander
- ½ tspGround turmeric
- 400g tinCrushed tomatoes
- 2 tbspTomato paste
- 200mlThickened cream
- 1 tbspHoney or sugar
- To tasteSalt
- HandfulFresh coriander, chopped (to garnish)
Method
Marinate the chicken (night before). In a large bowl, combine the yoghurt, lemon juice, garam masala, cumin, chilli powder, and salt. Add the chicken pieces and toss to coat thoroughly. Cover and refrigerate overnight, or for at least 4 hours. This step is crucial — the yoghurt tenderises the chicken and the spices penetrate deeply.
Cook the chicken. Preheat your oven grill to high. Thread the marinated chicken onto skewers (or lay flat on a lined baking tray). Grill for 10–12 minutes, turning once, until charred in places and cooked through. Set aside. You want some char — it adds smokiness.
Start the sauce. Melt the butter in a large, deep pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 10 minutes until very soft and golden. Add the garlic, ginger, garam masala, coriander, and turmeric. Cook for 1–2 minutes until fragrant.
Add tomatoes. Stir in the crushed tomatoes and tomato paste. Simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has thickened and the oil starts to separate at the edges.
Blend (optional). For a smoother sauce, use a stick blender to puree the sauce until silky. Ravi's grandmother didn't blend hers, but most restaurants do.
Add cream and chicken. Stir in the cream and honey, then add the grilled chicken pieces. Simmer gently for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is heated through and the sauce is rich and glossy. Taste and adjust salt.
Serve. Garnish with fresh coriander and serve with steamed basmati rice and naan bread.
Where This Came From
Ravi Sharma's grandmother ran a dhaba outside Amritsar in Punjab, where she cooked this butter chicken daily for truck drivers, families, and anyone who heard about her cooking. Ravi grew up in her kitchen, learning by watching, and he brought the recipe with him when his family migrated to Australia in the 1990s.
He makes it for special occasions, and every time, he uses his grandmother's garam masala blend, which she ground by hand in a stone mortar. He brought a jar of it from India last time he visited, and he rations it carefully. "When this runs out," he says, "I'll have to go back and learn to make it myself."
