The Origin Story
The tortilla is not just food — it's 7,000 years of Mesoamerican ingenuity compressed into a small disc of corn dough. The process that makes tortillas possible, nixtamalisation, was discovered by indigenous peoples in what is now Mexico, and it literally enabled civilisation. By treating dried corn with lime (calcium hydroxide), they unlocked nutrients that made corn a complete food, allowing populations to thrive and cultures to flourish.
I learnt to make tortillas in a cooking class in Oaxaca, taught by Elena López, who learnt from her mother, who learnt from hers, going back generations. Elena told us: "You don't measure masa. You feel it. Too dry, add water. Too wet, add flour. The masa tells you what it needs."
Her hands moved so quickly, shaping the dough balls, pressing them flat, flipping them on the comal. She made it look easy. When I tried, my first ten tortillas were misshapen disasters. By the twentieth, I started to understand what she meant about listening to the masa.
A Note on Tradition
In Mexico, tortillas are made fresh daily, often multiple times a day. The process begins with nixtamalisation — dried corn kernels are soaked and cooked in an alkaline solution (traditionally limewater), which softens the kernels, removes the hull, and makes the nutrients bioavailable. The treated corn is then ground into masa (dough), which is pressed into thin discs and cooked on a hot griddle called a comal.
Ingredients
- 2 cupsMasa harina (nixtamalised corn flour)Look for brands like Maseca or Bob's Red Mill — not the same as polenta or cornmeal
- 1 ½ cupsWarm water (approx)
- ½ tspSalt
Method
Mix the masa. In a large bowl, combine the masa harina and salt. Add the warm water gradually, mixing with your hands. Knead for 2–3 minutes until you have a soft, pliable dough that doesn't crack when you press it. The dough should feel like Play-Doh — not sticky, not dry. Add more water or masa as needed.
Rest the dough. Cover the bowl with a damp tea towel and let the dough rest for 15–20 minutes. This allows the masa to fully hydrate.
Divide and shape. Divide the dough into 12 equal pieces (about golf-ball sized). Roll each piece into a smooth ball and keep them covered with the damp towel so they don't dry out.
Press the tortillas. Line a tortilla press with two sheets of plastic (cut-up freezer bags work perfectly). Place a dough ball in the centre and press firmly to flatten into a thin disc, about 15cm diameter. If you don't have a press, use a flat-bottomed pan or heavy plate and press down hard.
Cook the tortillas. Heat a dry cast-iron pan or heavy frying pan over medium-high heat until very hot. Peel the tortilla from the plastic and cook for 30–45 seconds on the first side, until it starts to develop brown spots. Flip and cook for another 30–45 seconds. Flip again — the tortilla should puff up slightly. Three flips total, about 90 seconds of cooking.
Keep warm. Stack the cooked tortillas in a clean tea towel or tortilla warmer to keep them soft and pliable. Serve immediately.
Where This Came From
Elena López teaches cooking classes in Oaxaca City, where she shares the techniques passed down through her family for generations. Her abuela (grandmother) made tortillas three times a day, every day, from the age of seven until she was ninety. Elena carries that knowledge in her hands.
She told us that making tortillas is not about precision — it's about connection. Connection to the corn, to the process, to the thousands of years of people who have made this same simple food. "When you make tortillas," she said, "you're cooking, but you're also remembering."
